Monday 10 September 2007

Nicki's 40th Birthday in Scotland

Ben Nevis is 4,406ft high Nicki will be 40 in April 2008 and as May and June are statistically the driest months to visit Scotland Nicki has decided to celebrate with a climb up Ben Nevis with friends and family and a stay at the nearby campsite. Britain's tallest mountain sits near Fort William, the outdoor capital of the UK and within some of Scotland's most beautiful scenery.

We've created a blog so everyone can read and comment and it makes a good reference for places to visit if people are interested. To comment just click the link at the bottom of each thread, you don't need to have an account but its free and easy to set one up.

Ben Nevis

Last time we climbed Ben Nevis Nicki was pregnant with Corrin and we managed to get about half way up using the tourist path. The views and fresh air are excellent and there's plenty of opportunity to stop along the way, including a lake (Lochan Meall An T-Suidhe) which is our initial goal. The journey up is mostly via a well troden path, sure footing and little chance of straying off course. The more adventurous who wish to reach the summit, will need to take the challenge a bit more seriously as the path disappears on the higher slopes and the dangers of the mountain increase so we'll focus on the full climb in another thread. It takes 5 hours to reach the summit and 3 hours to descend. We'll attempt our climb on a clear day in the morning (probably a week day) and its likely we'll climb higher than the clouds. The recommendation for the climb is a good pair of hiking boots, waterproofs, warm clothing, map, compass, torch and whistle. Some aerobic exercise and steps will provide the necessary fitness but most of the climb is fairly easy and you'll be rewarded some excellent views even if you stick to climbing just up to the lake. The summit is likely to be cold and windy but a scree plateau of uneven rocks, and its possible we'll find some snow (6ft deep at the top in May 2007)! Obviously every good climb deserves a pint so the Ben Nevis Inn at the bottom of the mountain will be a welcome return:
Ben Nevis Inn website

Here's a pic of Lochan Meall An T-Suidhe, our first objective (from above).


Here's a pic of the summit


The Glen Nevis campsite
The campsite is well established and awarded campsite of Scotland 2006, I first visited in 1978 and its improved each time I've visited. You can pitch a tent or mobile home, rent caravans, cottages or lodges so there's something for a variety of budgets. It's situated in a valley with mountains either side dominating the view and the access to Ben Nevis is via a footbridge crossing the River Nevis. There's showers, laundry, provisions, bar and restaurant on the campsite.
Glen Nevis Campsite website
Here's a view of the campsite from Ben Nevis



Beyond the campsite you'll pass the youth hostel, waterfalls and the Glen Nevis waterslide until you come to Steale car park where the road ends. From here you can take a leisurely hike along the West Highland Way through Steale Gorge where huge boulders strangle the river as it thunders over and round them and eventually arrive at Steall Waterfall which descends 500ft down the mountain and is accessed via the Cable Bridge, great for all the Indiana Jones lookalikes.



Here's an excellent collection of pix of the walk:


For a more arduous route you can continue onwards, completing a circular trek known as the ring of Steale which includes the climb over Devil's Ridge, but be warned this is not a beginners trek:



Fort William
The town of Fort William is 2 miles from the campsite offering banks, accommodation, entertainment, swimming pool, 10-pin Bowling, pubs, supermarket, fast food and restaurants. The Loch offers plenty of opportunity for watersports including scuba diving and nearby is the Glen Nevis whisky distillery plus Neptune's Staircase (lock system) on the Caledonian canal.

Harry Potter Train



The Jacobean steam train used in the Harry Potter film leaves Fort William travelling through Glenfinnan and over the famous 21 arch viaduct continuing onto the coast at Mallaig. The journey takes 2hrs and the full return trip takes 6hrs which gives you half hr in Glenfinnan and 1&1/2hrs in Mallaig. Its only available during the week, leaving at 10.20 and returning approx 4pm costing £28 for adults, £16 for children.
Jacobean steam train website

Glencoe



Glencoe is 20 miles south of Fort William where the mountains rise like huge fists from the earth and the massacre in 1692 still carries a foreboding atmosphere. Nearby to Glencoe is the summer ski-lift which is worth a visit.

Highland Games at Blair Atholl



If you fancy some Highland Games you'd find it hard to find a better backdrop than Blair castle in Blair Atholl, where the games commence on Sunday 25th May at 1.15pm. The castle hosts Europe's only remaining private army, the Atholl Highlanders (pictured above).
Blair Castle website

Loch Ness
If you fancy visiting Loch Ness it will take 1&1/2hrs by car to get to the famous Urquhart Castle where Nessie was photographed, passing Loch Lochy, and Fort Augustus on the way. A two hour radius by car will take you as far as the Isle of Skye, past Eilean Donan Castle and the Kyle of Lochalsh to the east. Aviemore, Pitlochry, Inverness, Perth, Stirling, Glasgow and Oban are all within this radius.

Eilean Donan Castle website
You may recognise this castle from the film Highlander starring Mel Gibson.



Other places of interest:
Reconstruction of Iron-age Loch dwellings:
The Scottish Crannog Centre website
Famed for its part in Monarch of the Glen and Mrs Brown is one of Scotland's most stunning private houses - Ardverikie:
Ardverikie website

The climb to the summit

Recommended Equipment:
Compass, Map, Torch and Whistle (the distress call is 6 blasts each minute). Phone coverage in the mountains is unreliable!
A strong pair of hiking boots, waterproof jacket and trousers and hat. Spare warm clothing is also recommended as it can change to freezing conditions!
Food: pasta, cereal or potatoes make good food before the climb. Mars bars and chocolate make a good source of energy. Bring a water bottle, you'll likely refil this from one of the streams on the mountain.


The Climb to the top
There are a number of routes to climb Ben Nevis including the very steep slopes of the North face used by mountaineers, however we'll be taking the tourist route which is the easiest to climb but can become quite busy. Starting from Achintee, the path up is easy to follow until it disappears at the upper slopes. This isn't so much of a problem on the ascent but the descent requires good navigation to return to the path and avoid the dangerous cliffs and gorges of more advanced routes. Once the mist or clouds descend the route becomes impossible to detect so a map and compass is thoroughly recommended.

The route starts at the footbridge over the River Ness, past the Glen Nevis Visitor Centre and up Meall-an't-Suidhe (the Hill of Rest which leads to the Shoulder of Ben). This part of the climb isn't too steep and the path is very well laid.
The ascent to the lake and the shoulder of Ben is a worthy climb offering excellent views of the valley including our campsite. You're likely to see Kestrels, Buzzards and Bunting in this area but if you're lucky you may spot a Golden Eagle. Beyond here you'll need to be equipped for a more strenuous climb and prepared for the weather to change very quickly as well as to be immersed in cloud. It can become wet with little shelter and very cold. The summit receives over 7 times the annual rainfall as in London, Edinburgh or Inverness and snow can be found on the mountain throughout the year. The return trip totals a hike of approx 10 miles.

The path gradually climbs, swinging to the left and into the valley where Lochan Meall An T-Suidhe lies. This loch makes a great resting place but its a mile short of the half-way point. As you ascend the hill alongside the loch the path turns to the right heading South, to cross the Red Burn (do not continue alongside the lake as this leads to the dangerous North Face). The path now zig-zags up the mountain about a dozen times until it reaches the plateau. The path now flattens out which means the last hike to the summit is relatively easy however you'll probably arrive at temperatures just above freezing even during hot summer days. The summit, and much of the climb past the zig-zags is boulder strewn rock and there are the remains of the observatory and the shelter on the domed plateau. However whilst our trek was gentle slopes there are steep drops on the North face.

The sheer cliffs at the top of Ben are often topped by snow, please don't feel its safe to stand near the edge unless you're completely sure of the ground underneath.

In white-out conditions you'll need to navigate off the summit:
1. From the summit trig. pillar walk 150m on a grid bearing of 231` to near the top of Gardyloo Gully (first marker pole*).

2. Then follow the grid bearing of 282` to clear the plateau (a second marker pole is situated 300m along this second bearing, at the top of McLean's Steep*).

*Note* Marker poles are removed regularly by people who disagree with their placement, so do not count on them being in situ.

See you at the bottom in the Glen Nevis Inn \o/

The Tourist path


The last stretch on the snow covered summit


An excellent library of pictures of the climb to the top of Nevis, complete with panorama's from the summit can be found here:
Nevis climb
and more here:
Walk Nevis

Illustration of Route (pdf)
http://www.highland.gov.uk/NR/rdonlyres/C2456F6F-9242-4587-84AC-259CF225CA88/0/BenNevisBeinnNibheis.pdf

Planning for the climb:
http://www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk/leaflets/walksafe.html

Weather check:
http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/HOBBIES/mountain_forecast.asp?LocationID=1092

Details on route from Youth Hostel:
http://www.munromagic.com/RouteInfo.cfm?RouteID=4&CFID=513139&CFTOKEN=38027436

Sunday 9 September 2007

Scotland in the movies

Here's a great site which lists many places in Scotland that have featured in movies and TV. Some are very close to where we're staying and some are more popular for their appearance in movies than for their history or culture.
You can view the homepage here: Scotland in the movies website

From the campsite you cross the bridge towards the Ben Nevis tourist path. Immediately to your right and a short walk up are the plains used for Braveheart. However, Glen Nevis has also been used for Highlander, Rob Roy, the first 2 Harry Potter movies and 2001: A Space Odyssey.
see this link:
Glen Nevis links

The viaduct at Glenfinnan was used for the Harry Potter movies, notably the steam train which travels over it and the flying car.
Glenfinnan viaduct

Eilean Donan Castle was used in Braveheart and is easily recognised from the BBC ads from a few years back where the hot air balloon travelled over many famous UK landmarks.
Eilean Donan link

Part of the film Rob Roy starring Liam Neilson as Robert McGregor was filmed in and around Glencoe as well as Highlander, The 39 steps and Monty Python and the Holy Grail.
Glencoe link

Many places nearby to Fort William were used for Monty Python and the Holy Grail including Glencoe: Glencoe link but more recognisable is the castle where King Arthur appeals to the french to join him in their search "Your mother was a hamster and your father smelled of elderberries!": Doune castle link